1. Press in studs and races if we haven't already

done that for you.  If you don't have access to a

press, we will press your studs and races in free of

charge.  Be sure the races are pressed all the way in.



2. Inspect and install spindle on rear arm.  If you remove the

spindle from the arm you may want to sent it off to crack

check.  Grind off about two (2) threads of the 3/8" x 5/8"

spindle bolts.  Use new 3/8" AN washers and RED

LOCTITE!!!  Torque these bolts to 45 lbs-ft.  Make sure

you install the right-threaded spindle on the passenger

side and the left-threaded spindle on the driver side!!!!



3. Inspect the bearings and races.  Make sure there is no

rust or other junk on the races or in the bearings.  Grease

the bearing.  We use Chevron Delo grease.  Make sure

the grease squeezes through the bearing and grease the

races on the hub lightly before installing the bearing.



4.  Inspect your rear seal.  Make sure the rubber

squeezes freely and doesn't hit the lip of the seal.

Clean the surface where the seal pounds into the hub.

AFTER you have put in the greased bearing, pound the

seal in carefully.  Make the seal even with the top surface

of the hub.



5.  Clean and inspect your brake rotor.  Make sure there

are no hairline cracks.  Make sure the surface that gets

bolted against the hub is clean.  You may need to sand

off any rust and sharp edges.  Install the rotor.  Use RED

LOCTITE!!!  Make sure all of the rotor bolts are clean.



6. Grease the outer race and install the hub assembly onto the

spindle on your rear arm.  Put the outboard bearing into the hub. 

Clean any excess grease off the spindle threads.  Install the

spindle nut using a 3" spanner wrench.  Make sure the pinch bolt

is fairly tight or else the spindle nut might skip a thread.  Do

not be afraid to tighten the spindle nut past hand tight.  We

even use a hammer to make sure it is really tight.  Also,

make sure to tighten the pinch bolt down as tight as possible

after you have tightened down the spindle nut.  This is a little

difficult as it is a tight space but use a long handled allen

wrench and let it bend a little.



7.  Clean and inspect brake calipers.  Check the brake pads.

Use the pre-drilled bolts provided, new 3/8" AN washers,

and RED LOCTITE!!!  When installed, safety wire the bolts.




8.  Clean and inspect the drive plate, v-seals, o-rings, and CV

cups.  You may have to clean the CV cup surfaces with sand

paper so they are smooth.  Tap the 1/2" dowel pins into the CV

cup lightly.  Line up the dowel pins and insert CV cup into the

drive plate.  Bolt the drive plate to the CV cup with the 3/8" x 3/4"

12 Point bolts.  Use RED LOCTITE and no washers.  Torque to

45 lbs-ft.  Use a screwdriver in the brake caliper and put the

drive plate on the hub to tighten the drive plate bolts.  This

works well on CV bolts as well.



8a.  If you are using the old style drive plate, once you

line up the dowel pins and insert the CV cup into the

drive plate, look through the CV cup and find the non-

through holes.  The holes in the CV cup alternate between

through holes, and non-through holes.  Use the 3/8" x 1"

12 Point bolts (use RED LOCTITE!!!) and bolt the CV

cup to the drive plate in the non-through holes.  Then, put

the o-ring on the cap and attach the cap to the drive plate

using the 3/8" x 1" bolts in the through holes (use RED

LOCTITE!!!).  If you screw this up, the CV bolts hit the

drive plate bolts and your CV will be loose.  Torque these

bolts same as above, 45 lbs-ft.   


9.  Grease and insert big o-ring.  The grease should hold it in

the groove.  Install and grease the v-seal on the CV cup.




10.  Prep CVs and axles.  Off of the car, attach the floater

side CV to the drive plate.  Slide this through the spindle

and attach the transmission side CV to the transmission.

On the transmission side, you may have to grind off two

(2) threads of the CV bolts if you are using a Mendeola

transmission.  Use RED LOCTITE and tighten the CV

bolts down to 45 lbs-ft.


11. When everything is tight, use the flat-head cap screws

to attach the drive plate to the hub.  Use anti-seize or else

the cap screws gall and are difficult to remove.





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